Let’s be honest: “Dairy substitute” just doesn’t have a nice ring to it. Nothing can ever replace the real thing—and no watery creamers, golden margarine tubs, nor chalky faux cheeses should be able to convince us otherwise. Besides, why focus on what a food is not, when we should be focusing on what it is?

That’s one of the reasons why FoMu—a vegan ice cream company that unapologetically showcases the virtues of coconut cream—is particularly refreshing. Its base might not come from a ruminant, but coconuts have fat, mouthfeel, and flavor aplenty. Skeptical? Just try it. This creamy, thick, viscous stuff will stick to your spoon and haunt your daydreams.

The product is a labor of love for owners Deena Jalal and Hin Tang. The two left corporate jobs to take over an Emack & Bolio’s ice cream shop and, after searching for methods of improving quality and alternative non-dairy bases, were inspired to branch out on their own.

In addition to the slightly detectable coconut aura that shines through—especially in vanilla-based preparations—added ingredients attest to Jalal and Tang’s quest for quality. In seasonal varieties like Strawberry Rhubarb Pie, we’ve found real berries swirled with morsels of crust. A divine avocado variety is made by slicing and pitting real fruits for an avocado-forward flavor with a hint of lime. Staples like Salted Caramel avoid cloying sweetness in exchange for burnt and buttery tastes, while a George Howell Cold Brew flavor is a milky interpretation of the locally-roasted beans.

Speaking of coffee— espresso drinks and other pastries are on offer at all three of FoMu’s brick-and-mortar locations. These airy, whitewashed-interior shops are the kind of place we could while away an afternoon, ice cream sandwich or the company’s twist on a choco taco in hand—whether we’re vegan, lactose-sensitive, or veritable worshippers at the altar of dairy.