Bivalves, this way: following the sign and descending away from busy Washington Street into this seafood eatery is like diving into a secluded submarine cove. Blue-hued and cozy any time of year, B&G is especially lovely in summer, when the backyard terrace is lit by string lights and enclosed by ivy-laced brownstones.

Whatever the cuisine, we’ve come to expect nothing but classy execution from restauranteur Barbara Lynch, who now oversees eight of the city’s trendiest spots (see: Menton, No. 9 Park, and Drink). B&G might just be the most authentically New England restaurant for the Boston native, who’s had extensive training in Italy and France. That’s probably why classics like fried clams and lobster rolls are executed with the precision of a worldly chef without losing sight of locals’ love for the simple perfection of fresh seafood.

You’ll see what we mean once—after the obligatory round of expertly shucked oysters—you dive into a seasonal crudo, like a ceviche with sea scallops tucked under garnishes that lend texture rather than flavor, never overwhelming the mollusc’s simple buttery freshness. Move on to serious classics, like fried clams that yield crispiness without chewiness, dipped in a creamy, pickly tartar sauce we’d slather anywhere. And of course there’s the obligatory lobster roll: It’s chunky, it’s meaty, and it’s not weighed down by anything else, save a few tiny speckles of celery to lend a little crunch. Between each bite, savor those french fries dusted with a spicing that’s subtle yet insanely addictive—there’s nothing better than that big-bite New England stuff, with evidence of careful crafting along the way.