This island institution changed hands a few years back, but the refined New England-meets-French-and-Italian-ish favorite remains, in some ways, very much the same. Guests still settle in with the Navy-strength gin-based Mórtini and garlicky Roasted Oysters Bourguignon before tucking into fragrant Black Truffle Bucatini or Long Island Duck Breast with peach and Calabrian pepper salsa. This is a spot to have quiet conversation, to take your parents, or to sit at the bar with a glass of Burgundy, a bowl of lobster pasta, and a good book. Sometimes you want to escape the scene while eating and drinking really well, and this is the place to do it.